Fibre / Fibreglass Abrasive Cleaning Pencil / Pen & 5 Refills

Product Information

A fibreglass pencil is a versatile tool that can be used to clean a variety of materials such as wood, metal and plastic ready for preparation, as well as de-rusting metal. They often feature a propelling action to expose more or less of the fibres depending on the level of abrasiveness you need. Remember it is not just the flux, but the way it is used, the metal must be pre-cleaned, the iron spotless, and well tinned, with 60/40 lead solder, even if modern tin based eco solder is used. the 60/40 is easily available, and is the traditional tinning solder. Tinning the iron is vital to the whole process, and it is repeated every so often as the work proceeds. The burnishing from the fibre brush can be dealt with a final light application of matt varnish once you've removed the powder. Done a bit more work on the brake van by taking some more powder off using the fibreglass pen and adding some powders to the underframe. I don't think it looks too bad on the layout. I've got some more techniques I want to try so I might do that on the other side and I bought another unfitted brake van to try and get the look I really wanted. I've also aquired some quite usefull abrasive wheels for my minidrill from a jewlers supplier, but I can't remember their name ATM.

D02266 Duratool, Pencil, Fibreglass, Propelling | Farnell UK D02266 Duratool, Pencil, Fibreglass, Propelling | Farnell UK

Garryflex is colour coded, according to grade. There is a list printed on the side of the card wrapper - which may, or may not, be readable in the photo earlier in this thread: Company policy is that we do not under any circumstances issue instructions to our couriers to leave deliveries unattended when no one is at the delivery location. I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built.... Over the years, I've used this stuff for a number of purposes - and have generally found the medium to be the most useful of the lot - followed by fine (which I've sometimes used for cleaning circuit boards).

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Totally agree Kenton, but it gives you an escape route if you've buggered it up! In my particular speciality it can encourage plastic to flow into corners that it doesn't want to go into. This is ideal for a variety of uses. It can remove printing from the side of locos, coaches and wagons, clean points for improved electrical conductivity and loco wheels, commutators, and “untarnishes” metals, like coupling rods of steam locos and diesel shunters. Having built a large number of etched kits over the years, and tried most fluxes, I've settled on water based safety flux, available online from " O gauge online", and other suppliers. No nasty fumes, non corrosive and can be cleaned up with tap water and a drop of washing up liquid. Works well for me.

Glass fibre pencil - 4mm | RS

This 4mm glass fibre pencil has a fast abrasive action and is ideal for wheel cleaning, burnishing, and polishing. Dip the fibreglass refills in dilute PVA before use, holds them together and helps prevent "finger itch" so you can remove those unsightly solder stains seen on so many assembled kits.Far better is to learn to use less solder in the first place The abrasive fibreglass pencil comes from the trusted and highly reliable, RS PRO. It is ideal fo de-rusting on a range of materials such as metal, wood and plastic. It is also a great tool for accurate and precise cleaning in hard to reach places due to its durable lightweight design. The propelling action on the glass fibre pen allows the fibreglass fibres to be exposed, depending on the level of abrasiveness you want to achieve. The shorter the glass fibre, the more abrasive the action of the tool becomes. Features & Benefits: Fibre Glass Scratch Brushes are very useful in your workshop and have a wide number of applications:If I can make a suggestion. Less powder as it goes a long way. As you already discovered, the varnish really is applied as a 'dusting', a mist if you like. It is the nature of the stuff, no wetting agent, simpler acids do this. You can try adding a tiny amount of detergent or some alcohol to it,

Gaugemaster GM633 Glass fibre pencil - Hattons Model Railways Gaugemaster GM633 Glass fibre pencil - Hattons Model Railways

But it's getting expensive, and perhaps the last poster is on to something... I'm certainly inclined to give it a try. I'm relatively new to etch kit building and have been using phosphoric flux from available from London Road Models and Hobby Holidays (amongst others). Initially I applied it with a brush, but have switched to using a syringe (the needle on it filed off flat to avoid the risk of accidentally injecting myself with flux!). I use 10% phosphoric acid applied with a small paintbrush. Runs well by capillary action as it is an aqueous solution. You are right mind, sometimes its better to leave it for a bit. I've done the same with a couple of mine. I used to use a fibre glass tip cleaning tool with a cloth wrapping, this is more convenient and accessible to use and the results are as good, great product.

Agree. I use Carr's yellow as it doesn't rust one's tools and doesn't leave green deposits on brass. It may have disadvantages that I'm not aware of, but I've used it for 5 years and it gets things built.... Thanks for the comment Doilum, I'm not sure about the livery of the wagon, it's quite an old Bachmann product and could be completely fictitious, there might be someone on here who knows though.