Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

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The only time I feel alive is when I'm painting. Vincent Van Gogh

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The white armor got primed with Stynylrez Grey, and an initial coat of Vallejo Model Air White Grey was applied. I built up highlights with Vallejo Model Air Insignia White and Vallejo Model Air White (using the final pure white only very sparingly). If I was doing these again I’d probably use ProAcryl Titanium White instead. It’s not a different color, but it’s the nicest white I’ve used and I need to sing its praises everywhere. I hit them all with a Satin Varnish at this point – you can make satin by mixing gloss and matte roughly 50:50. My goal here is to get a nice fade going on the models. I’ll then use Carroburg to darken the edges around the armor trim. I do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result. Somehow it took Games Workshop until the end of the 2010s to realize one important fact: People like pets. 40k saw the release of Kill Team: Rogue Trader, which included an extremely good boy, while Age of Sigmar has embraced Khornedogs, Gryph-Hounds, and Aetherwings for the Bloodbound and Stormcast factions. Where they’ve really outdone themselves is, as is so often the case, in Necromunda, where every gang has had an associated pet to accompany their gang leaders. Even Enforcers are getting in on the fun! Credit: Games Workshop

Step 6. Edge Highlights

The metallic highlights used were Pro Acryl Copper and Vallejo Game Color Chainmail. For these I wipe a bit of the paint off on a paper towel before running the brush against the upper surfaces of the metals areas. It’s similar to a drybrush technique. The leather bits were highlighted with Vallejo Flat Earth. Apply decals, if you’re using them. I don’t have any floating around, so they’re absent from mine – but the official schema is a white battlefield role marker on the right shoulder, a blood drop over that denoting chapter, an ornate Arabic numeral on the right knee for the squad number, and the chapter icon on the left shoulder. Contrast Wyldwood for the pouches, a dab of Contrast Iyanden Yellow on the Purity Seal, Skulls and weapon housing for a spot of colour. This poor cat was left abandoned when the nice old lady who owned her became destined for some kind of horrible giger-esqe kitbash. She was found wandering in the desert, so I gave her the forever-home she deserved. Rhinox Hide: Rhinox Hide is a rich brown color that can be used in combination with Wild Rider Red to create an analogous color scheme. This color can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature and can also be used to paint the details of the miniature, such as the markings and symbols.

I use army painter Pure Red on my Blood Angels as I started my army a long time ago when Bood Angels were a much brighter shade than today. I found Mephiston Red too dark and it clashed with my old models which were painted with Blood Angels red (a shade close to Wild Rider). I then weathered the hell out of them with Rhinox Hide on a sponge, hitting both the shoulder pads and the white armor, concentrating on wear areas – knees, hands, and elbows mainly. Apply another layer of Ultra Matte Varnish to bind the pigment and give the whole model a consistent finish. Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition. Then very carefully apply a 50:50 mix of Nihilakh Oxide and Lahmian Medium to the recesses of any brass or copper areas to create a verdigris effect.

The Blood Angels Space Marines: The Blood Angels are a chapter of Space Marines known for their red color scheme. Wild Rider Red is a great choice for painting the armor of this chapter, it matches their official red color and makes it easy to achieve a consistent look across all your miniatures. I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White.

Red is, bar none, the hardest color to make look good on power armor. It's worse than yellow, there, I said it. Cadian Fleshtone: Cadian Fleshtone is a pale, neutral flesh color that can be used to create highlights and shadows on the red armor of Wild Rider Red miniatures. As a flesh-coloured paint, it can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature, making the red appear more dynamic. The Imperial Guard: The Imperial Guard are the primary troops of the Imperium in Warhammer 40K. Wild Rider Red can be used to paint the details of their armor and weapons, such as the markings and symbols of the Imperial Guard. With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work. The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex.These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models. If you want to see this process in more detail I’d recommend watching Cult of Paint’s excellent tutorial on preshading via their YouTube channel. At this stage I’m doing more red highlight as well, doing edge highlights on the red with Wazdakka Red. I also cover the eyes, doing them in a gemstone style using Warpstone Glow shaded with Coelia Greenshade and Nuln Oil and highlight with a spot of Moot Green. Because I had painted a burgundy carapace, I wanted the skin to contrast with it, and pull from colours that matched the pelagic influences on some of the new miniatures. I started with Celestra Grey , and glazed down with colours like Fenrisian Grey and The Fang , and shaded the darkest areas with Druchii Violet , to keep everything suitably menacing. Will: Custom Splinter Fleet

I’m not going to write how I do my lenses as I’m using a method from Mighty Brush’s how to paint Blood Angels guide. These are wonderfully laid out tomes that go into detail on many of the techniques I’ve used here and I can’t recommend them strongly enough. You can also use Goonhammer’s tutorials from How to Paint Space Marines, or How to Paint Lenses, gemstones, and vials. Blood spatter The pink is Liquitex INK! Magenta painted over the tongue. You may find yourself having to re-do the base after the blue gets everywhere; for the tongue don’t worry about applying more drybrushing or anything. I just cover the mistakes with Bonewhite and move on. For a little extra depth you can apply a wash of AP Purple Tone, but it’s not necessary in this case.Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten. The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. My World Eaters scheme is pretty simple, and it resembles the older 2nd edition scheme in some ways – namely that I like to do green power cables.