Games Workshop Warhammer Citadel Layer Ushabti Bone

Product Information

The gold was done with a base coat of Citadel Retributor Armor, an all over wash of Citadel Druchii Violet, chunky highlight with Citadel Auric Gold, and a final highlight of Vallejo Silver. Painting the model took me longer than any other model I’ve ever done. For reference I’ve built and painted a Warmaster Titan in 3 days, but something about the Glottkin proved to be a huge challenge for me. It took over a month to finish but I’m really happy with the result. Make a was of 1:1 Carroburg Crimson : Water and apply it around the mouth, eyes, ears and other soft delicate tissues

Basecoat all the joint areas of the armour and the details on the rifle with Ironbreaker. Base the rifle casing in Eshin Grey. Using a small piece of sponge dab on Rhinox Hide to form a pattern of random dots over the armour panels. Similar to drybrushing, you want to remove almost all the paint from the sponge before dabbing on the mini. Now use the browns from your pallete to selectively edge highlight the horns, using a shade one stage lighter than they were painted initially. This includes bears, blue dragons, cave crawlers, banshees, crawling hands, infernal mages, aberrant spectres, kurasks, desert lizards, zygomites, suqah, spiritual warriors, rangers and mages, jadinkos and tormented demons. If you have a different way you paint skulls and bone then I’d love to hear it in the comments. Specific Painting Techniques & TutorialsThe sword is made up for though by the really fantastic hat. The idea was “If a stupid mutated brute was told ‘You’re a knight’ I assume the first thing he’d do is demand a helmet”. It really looks very silly and captures the fun stuff I love about Nurgle. I’d have loved to have made a guide titled How to Paint Dark Angels Primaris – but I wrote this literally one week before they were announced! Currently I’m working on a knight despoiler that’s been hanging out for far too long, here’s a peek behind the curtain: Wash the exposed Ushabti Bone with some Skeleton Horde and the XV-88 / Mournfang Brown sections with Agrax Earthshade . I like to thin them both a little on my wet pallete before application.

Apply thinned Agrax Earthshade (50:50 Agrax Earthshade : Lahmian Medium) as a recess shade. This means you just want to run the shade into the grooves and edges of the armour and not all over the model. If you make a mistake, simply let it dry and tidy up with some Ushabti Bone. As with earlier stages, if you make a mistake, just correct it with some Ushabti Bone. Step 5 – Glaze The Armour

The next and most important step is the skin, which is a thinned Aethermatic Blue contrast paint. I start with a 5:3 ratio (5 parts Contrast Medium, 3 Aethermatic Blue) and do a few coats rather than one single coat. I find that thinning and doing smaller, lighter layers enables me to better control the contrast paint, and avoids making the models a bit too “blue” in the process. While I wouldn’t say things can go “wrong” here (as long as you like them!), these two models show a bit of the learning curve I had on thinning the paints. The first Crypt Horror below was without thinning the contrast, while the Crypt Flayer used a multi-coat approach. Both look good, but one looks a lot more “blue” while the other evokes an “icy”, “cool” feeling, which is what I wanted. Troll Slayer Orange: an orange color that can provide complementary contrast to the warmth of Ushabti Bone. My aim with this project was to mimic the box art but not try to go full Heavy Metal on the thing. Be’lakor himself ended up taking about fourteen hours to complete, and the base another nine. This is a great model, full of interesting details. The chainmail and skulls on the tabard are cool as hell, and the whole thing is hanging on rings through his flesh. I could see spending another twenty hours polishing it up into a really nice display or competition piece. Paints Used