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This might look something like: H&M pretending to be able to recycle clothing using its “Green Machine”. But they know it’ll never happen at scale, because it’s so much cheaper to landfill or burn it. Or fast fashion brands Shein, Zara and Pretty Little Thing’s new resale platforms. The pyramid that I was talking about is a very fragile pyramid: if Forever 21 stops calling the first guy, the rest of it falls apart. This is going to hurt, but it needs to be said: fashion is a disaster in terms of its environmental impacts. And as a nation, our fast fashion addiction is getting worse – thanks to surges in online shopping due to Covid-19.

Traders and tailors in Accra’s Kantamanto market work hard to repurpose and sell the clothing that arrives on their shores. Another large clothing market is in Kibera, Kenya. The documentary Textile Mountain. The hidden burden of our fashion waste by Make Europe Sustainable for All tells its story. TONNES OF BRAND NEW CLOTHING DUMPED IN THE CHILEAN DESERT Styles collected with no materials data were removed. Sampled datasets represent an average collection of women’s styles from each brand but may not represent other accessories, footwear or men’s clothing or other items and are a rough approximation of offerings by each brand.of Mitumba imported to Kenya is of such bad quality that it cannot be sold anymore, meaning in 2019, Kenya had to deal with 150–200 tonnes of fashion and textile waste per day. TAL is involved with the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel which is investigating new ways to make the fashion industry more sustainable. In November, the institute launched a "Green Machine," developed with the H&M Foundation, which can separate mixed materials. The new machine works by decomposing the cotton part of the material and extracting the polyester, which can then be spun into garments. Finally, we can develop a deeper connection with our clothing, to slowly but surely change the way fashion works for us – either as individuals or together. To calculate the number of clothes thrown away each second, the annual waste figure—around 11.28 million tons, or 22.56 billion pounds—was divided by the number of seconds per year—around 31.56 million. In that calculation, each piece of clothing was estimated to weigh around 5.33 ounces—one third of a pound—to account for differences in types of clothing and footwear. As well as being inexpensive, polyester doesn't crease and can be washed at low temperatures. However, the laundry process also releases tiny fibers known as microplastics, which can be harmful to marine life. While polyester lasts for years, longevity is a double-edged sword — clothes can be worn many times but will likely end up in landfill, and don't biodegrade.

There is something rather heartening in this admission, though. As uncomfortable as it is to read about such moments of sartorial disaster and distress (as well as a good dose of defiance), they demonstrate that it's not unusual to endure a moment of rising panic in a suit that leaves us itchily out of place or a skirt that misreads the room. They understand that to exist in public is to potentially feel vulnerable, and that a dress really can make or ruin an evening. As many of us find ourselves navigating new wardrobe choices and the watchful eyes of others once more after a year of minimal socialising, this thought isn't altogether reassuring. However it does offer solace in reminding us that if our garments suddenly make us feel ill at ease, we're certainly not alone. Circular solutions include using fabrics made from recycled ocean plastics, or reusing offcuts of older materials to make new pieces. These solutions limit the need for new fabrics like virgin polyester, or even biodegradable fabrics like cotton, which consumes a lot of water.These moments of fashion disaster pierce the reader because they capture the cruelty of other people's judgments – whether real or imagined – and convey the acute anxiety of standing out in all the wrong ways. This is an anxiety that fashion thrives on, both as an industry (what else are trends but designations of "right" and "wrong"?) and a cultural system that frequently relies on dress codes, uniforms, and an unspoken understanding of what is considered appropriate and attractive. No wonder it sometimes all feels a bit crushing.

The expression ‘mad as a hatter’ was in use 30 years before Lewis Carroll popularised it with Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Mercury poisoning was an occupational hazard for hat makers in the 18th and 19th Centuries: the chemical was used in the production of felt, and prolonged exposure led to what was termed the ‘mad hatter disease’. Symptoms included tremors and pathological shyness and irritability – leading to doubts that Carroll’s eccentric milliner was a sufferer, with an article in the British Medical Journal suggesting “it could scarcely be said that the Mad Hatter suffered to any great extent from the desire to go unnoticed”. Companies push new trends endlessly and seasons now move faster than ever. Many of these items of clothing are simply made to become waste; to make way for the next brand-new batch of clothing. Boohoo – whose parent company also owns PrettyLittleThing – set a target of using 100% recycled or more sustainable textiles in their manufacturing by 2025. The report’s authors warn that they have a ‘mountain to climb’ if they are to meet this, and must reduce their overall volume of clothing sold. A 2019 enquiry found that Boohoo and Missguided are among the least sustainable companies in the entire UK fashion industry.

Fashion is made to become waste

Giving new meaning to the phrase ‘fashion victim’, a 35-year-old Australian woman had to be cut out of a pair of skinny jeans after developing a condition called compartment syndrome. It’s not the first time someone has succumbed to a dangerous style trend: “They’ve always been around, since the Stone Ages,” says Summer Strevens, the author of Fashionably Fatal. “It’s when fashion is taken to an extreme; I call it vanity insanity.” Here are five of the deadliest fads in history. So what are H&M and Zara going to do? They’re going to just keep recycling stuff. They kind of tweak things all the time anyway. They have something in red? They make it in blue. And you know, what in the end do we mostly wear? T-shirts and jeans. At any given moment of the day, half the planet is wearing jeans. The first table you see when you walk into [Uniqlo or Zara] is jeans. That’s their bread and butter—it’s like when you walk into a luxury store and you see handbags. So they’ll just keep making jeans. The oil industry has likely expected a hit on its profits coming, as much-needed climate action lowers the use of fossil fuels. The numbers are stark: only 10–30% of clothes you donate to the charity shops will be sold by them and charity shops are so overwhelmed with clothing that’s basically waste. So where does all this clothing go?

The Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013 sparked a call for change in the global fashion industry. But 10 years on, more than 100 billion clothes a year are made – mostly from oil turned into polyester – by people working in dangerous conditions. This is fast fashion’s impact on people and the planet.But what happens when clothing doesn’t even make it into the hands of buyers? Some of this brand-new, unworn clothing also ends up in places like Ghana.