Honeywell V4073A1039/U 22 mm Mid Position Valve

Product Information

The motor in the valve has failed ( but why doesn't the manual open cause flow and the boiler to fire up ? ) Both of these genuine SYNCHRON motors work in Honeywell motorised valves. The motors SYNCHRON make specifically for Honeywell come with two blue wires The rubber ball sits against the circular port (right side in photo), closing it off. We’re told that the ball touches one edge of the circular port first, causing the ball to rotate slightly on its spindle. This regular slight rotation evens out distortions in the ball. A little piece of elegant design work by Honeywell!

The V4043B valves are uncommon and likely to be found in solid fuel systems. These valves fail-safe in the open position in the event of a power failure or valve motor failure. Left to its own devices with pump on and CH and HW on, nothing seems to be happening in terms of pipes near the valve getting hot The commonest fault with Honeywell motorised valves is motor failure. Honeywell valve motor fault? Testing a Synchron valve motor My first thought was that the boiler wasn't firing up because the micro switch(es) to do so were faulty. The Honeywell V4043H1106 28mm 2-port zone valve has 6 wires. Five of these wires are the same as 22mm 2-port valve.Green/yellow is Earth, blue is Neutral, brown is Live (or Line) to the motor, grey and orange are connected to the end switch and form part of a separate circuit.A normally-closed valve is closed when no power is being applied to it and needs electrical power to drive it open. Nearly all Honeywell valves have a powerhead (also called an actuator) which can be separated from the valve body. The valve body is the brass casting which is bolted into the pipework.

With modern boilers, the boiler sends a Live feed to the circulating pump which then pumps heated boiler water through the valve. It will go to the radiators or to the cylinder coil, depending on which valve was opened. With older boilers, the Live from the auxiliary circuit end switch goes directly to the pump at the same time as it goes to the boiler Switched Live.V4043C1156 is a 2 port, ½” BSP Female threaded, 3-wire, normally-closed zone valve but has no end switch Is there a way of easily testing whether a pump is functioning properly? I can remove mine, it has isolating valves. As Echo said, the pump is a bit suspicious because Sometimes turning off the HW allows the CH to work, after some minor gurgling noises from the system When Heating is also called for, the white wire is energised and the valve will motor to, and stop in, a mid-position. Power for the boiler is still supplied directly from the cylinder thermostat. The orange valve wire may have a potential of 230V but this is coming from the cylinder stat (to which the orange wire is also connected) and not from the circuitry of the valve.

Honeywell V4043H1056 22mm 2-port zone valves have five wires: green/yellow is Earth, blue is Neutral, brown is Live (or Line) to the motor, grey and orange are connected to the end switch and form part of a separate circuit.

The pump is going all the time, trying to do something and the pipework is throbbing! But is it pumping water? However, if you need to replace the motor it may be easier to remove the powerhead so you can work on it in the open. Remember, on early Honeywell motorised valves (pre-1985) you can’t remove the powerhead without draining down first! The pump has failed, and is pretending to be working ( but then why does banging the valve cause everything to work sometimes ? ) If the powerhead (actuator) can be safely removed from the valve body (see warning above about pre-1985 Honeywell valves) you can try to turn the spindle. You may need a tool unless you have strong fingers. You must also isolate the electrical supply before removing a Honeywell motorised valve powerhead.

The manual lever of the valve offers no resistance with the power off and it does not return to the auto position when released, as it should. I have played with one of these valves in a shop and the resistance to movement is much greater and the valve does return to the auto position. On older style valves pre-1985, which do not have the replaceable head feature, the adaptor plate assembly can be used to upgrade the valves, to allow the replaceable powerhead to be used.” Starting with the controls set for Heating Only, hold the lever tight against the right side of the slot. Now get someone to select Hot Water too, so you get Heating and Hot Water together. You may need to turn the cylinder stat up to make it call. As soon as Hot Water is also called, you will hearthe valve start to unwind under the force of the spring, then you will feel the lever “bump” your finger.In medium sized or larger properties, using a combi boiler, there may be an additional zone valve external to the boiler which allows the heating to be split into two zones. Replacing a failed Synchron motor in a Honeywell motorised valve is quite straightforward, assuming you know how to work with mains electricity safely. Make sure you read the whole process through before starting! As we’ve said above, Honeywell make a large range of motorised valves. The Normal state of a valve is the de-energised state. This is the state when no electrical power is being used by the valve motor. The Honeywell motorised valve faults detailed above are likely to apply to most domestic Honeywell valves. A Switchmaster Midi 3-port valve body with a seized spindle. This motorised valve was also rusting through round the screw in the picture Honeywell powerhead (actuator) jams?