Games Workshop Shade Carroburg Crimson Acrylic Paint (Red, Pot, Carroburg Crimson, Metal, Plastic, 25 ml)

Product Information

Warpaint Inks from The Army Painter provide excellent value. They contain 18 ml for a RRP of 2,75 Euro as opposed to 12 ml for 3,20 Euro Games Workshop is asking for their Shades. So you get 50% more wash but pay less – fantastic. The RRP of the Ink set is 17,50 Euro, so it offers a nice additional discount than buying the inks individually. Most of them are very close matches to the old Citadel Washes, which makes switching very easy. The only thing I’m missing is a proper flesh ink, a reddish brown similar to the old Ogryn Flesh wash or the new Reikland Fleshshade. I think The Army Painter has really dropped the ball here. In the included painting guide they suggest Soft Tone Ink for flesh, but this is more of a sepia shade and makes your skin look yellowish.

The steel is a new recipe for me using Scale 75 Eclipse Grey > Scale 75 Anthracite Grey > Scale 75 Behring Blue > GW Fenrisian Grey > Scale 75 White Using the general approach of starting with highlights/lowlights, basing Elysian Green, working up to a desaturated cream highlight, adding green saturation via an ink, then painting the details works for any other Nurgle model too, such as Plaguebearers and Nurglings. Try to make your darks super dark and your brights super bright, while choosing colors that create visual interest, and it’s hard to go wrong.For this you will need a white, along with a transparent red, orange and yellow. In my case I used VGA Gory Red, VGC Orange Fire and Golden High Flow Acrylics Hansa Yellow Medium. While a variety of colors will work well for this as long as they thin well to a transparent state (So most reds, yellows, and oranges), I’d avoid any colors that aren’t full saturation. I’ve tried this with Carroburg Crimson as the red, but using colors that aren’t as bright muddies the effect greatly.

The open sores and entrails are painted with a heavy coat of Contrast Blood Angels Red. I hit every part of the model that’s an open wound or has entrails leaking out. This is the base color, but we’re going to need to make this darker and add more variety. Any serious cut is likely to also leave considerable bruising around the area affected. As the cut heals over, the bruising heals as well. As bruises develop their colours change. Generally the pattern is red -> blue -> purple -> yellow -> brown.Burnt Umber looks close to Mournfang Brown, and the model has a basecoat of Unbleached Titanium which is close to Screaming Skull best I can tell. A shade of thinned Carroburg Crimson makes lighter skin look inflamed and flushed, and darker skin ruddy and warmer Thin your paints. No, more than that. Consider investing in some thinner medium and glaze medium (I use Vallejo) to stop your paint splitting when you thin it down enough for skin work My thought was for the impact to resemble concrete or ceramic plates. A few visual images helped. Particularly the top right.

Once the red was done I gave every model several thin coats of AK Interactive Gloss Varnish. This makes the red look much nicer and also makes the next step a lot easier! Odysseus above is modelling some cuts, with a fresh cut suffered in the last few minutes. If we instead look at a cut that happened within a couple of hours and had time to heal, it might look more like this: Following the basecoat, I go into my first shade. For my shade, I use Guilliman Flesh Contrast Paint thinned down about 2:1 with Contrast Medium . In retrospect, I think this left the shade a bit too light and I had to hit some areas an extra time, so a 1:1 mix would also probably work. I’m using Liquitex heavy body acrylics with a wet palette made from tupperware/paper towel/parchment paper.More washes. I want to retain a pale look, so I washed the flesh bits with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Druchii Violet, then I did a couple thin coats of Druchii Violet around the eyes and a ring of Nuln Oil to give the eyes a smoky, shadowy look on her face. For my Drukhari, I wanted to make clear that these are three separate subfactions who cooperate, and that they aren’t really a single army. To that end, I chose some color schemes that stand out next to one another, but have a coherent threat that joins them together. It’s much the same process for infantry, however with the red mostly done in a bulk airbrushing session there really isn’t much left to do once you’ve pin washed and edge highlighted So, I’ve talked about a lot of theory and paint mixing. I don’t typically mix up my own flesh tones in painting. Hell, I’m not as good a painter, nor do I spend as much time on individual models as my co-authors. If you’re looking for display models or to win painting awards, go listen to them. If you’re looking for a flexible technique that will do some pretty nice skin for high tabletop level models, then I may have something useful to impart.