Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Contrast Basilicanum Grey (18ml)

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Once again the wood gets a bit of greenery going with the contrast and elysian, note that I forgot to take a picture after applying the first highlight of gorthor. This way of painting skin isn't that different to what I'd normally do but it takes the hassle out of trying to lay down a smooth basecoat.

After that it was time to paint these bastards. I settled on a pretty simple strategy for painting them that would let me breeze through while still giving them ample color: Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones That was then highlighted with a mix of purple, brown and grey, to dull out the browns previously washed over them. And for a final highlight I mixed in some ivory into the the last step on the skin.

Black

Paint the Font with Baneblade Brown, Highlight with Karak Stone and edge highlight the tips of the font with Screaming Skull. Paint the frame with Baneblade Brown. They often need multiple coats to achieve a similar level of richness. Also, the pigment-based formula doesn’t really work with zenithal shading, as the opaque pigments will gather in the dark recesses and make them brighter, which is not exactly what you want. Wash armor and weapons with a 3:1 mix of Army Painter Strong Tone and Vallejo Sepia Ink (any brown ink will do) Highlight the yellow areas with a brighter yellow, such as Flashgitz Yellow. You can accentuate this further with an edge highlight of Dorn Yellow. I found that a coat of varnish helps to fix the problem, but you have to be careful, as the varnish can reactivate the Speedpaints as well. It’s quite annoying because it’s not an issue at all with Games Workshop’s Contrast paints and limits the Speedpaints’ usefulness because the reactivation issue also means that Speedpaints aren’t really suitable for glazing techniques. A single thinned down coat might be fine, but when you glaze multiple layers of Speedpaints over another the paint will reactivate and mess up all your careful glazing work. Multiple layers of glazing with Slaughter Red thinned with Speedpaint Medium

Boom, done. This whole piece probably took an hour to paint once primed, and that was with breaks to paint other minis while I waited for the washes to dry (by far the longest part). I didn’t show any floors here, but when I do them I paint them Karak Stone and drybrush/edge them with Rakarth Flesh and that compliments this cold gray scheme nicely. The end result is a piece that has enough color to stand out but won’t distract from the models around it. The only thing it’s missing is a base. Speaking of which… The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually getting painted and making it onto the table in my household. Tan and grey hard plastic figures: 6 mounted battalia commanders, 6 ensigns, 6 mounted cornets, 14 combined pike & shot regiments (80 soldiers each), 36 commanded shotte, 60 cavalry, 12 cuirassiers, 18 mounted dragoons, 30 dismounted dragoons, 6 Saker cannon and 6 Falconet light guns As we’ve noted in other articles on basing and painting, there’s often more than one way to approach these things, and beaches come in all varieties, from sandy paradise-style beaches lined by palm trees: Paint the wood and any straps with Citadel Contrast Wyldwood and any ropes/bandages/feathers with Citadel Wraithbone.From here, you could basically just wash those panels Agrax and this would be good to go, but by this point you’ve probably already invested way too much time here, so adding some light detail to really make them pop is a good investment. I use Blood Angels Red and Talassar Blue to make various wires, pipes and buttons either metallic red or blue, and use Hexwraith Flame to fill in the cage lights. and display screens. Normally I’d claim my guide is super fast but since RichyP probably finished his Cursed City collection in the time it took for you to read this sentence, I’ll have to settle for “easy”

Apply a sponge weathering of dark brown and dark silver to the armour, the battle damage will draw away the focus from any areas not perfectly highlighted. To save time I basically did not bother with any highlights outside of wood, the main thing is just going to be really slopping the washes on over Vallejo grey primer. For this kinda thing you can really go overkill so the wash settles into crappy highlights on its own. Skeletons Bandoliers and The Twelve Apostles (powder-filled bottles): Snakebite Leather (this contrasts nicely with the belts). Let’s take a look at the individual colours. The Speedpaint palette is very similar to the Contrast palette, even though there are only 24 paints (including Speedpaint medium), whereas Contrast has 35.Another sponsored “painting guide” forgetting one picture’s worth. Those serried ranks give little or no help in the painting process. I decided to add some gold reflections to the bottom of the blade with nazdreg yellow (imagine it's next to a gold leg). I also added some blue reflections with Aethematic blue to give it a daytime feel. The hides were done in the same way as the Hobgrotz, only with a traditional brush instead of an airbrush. The shoulder and leg armor is also done the same way as the Hobgrot armor. The metallic faces are done with Contrast paints over metallic. Gore-grunta Fur for copper, Nazdrag Yellow for gold, and Skeleton Horde for a sort of dirty silver. The large face was Apothecary White over metallic, with bright white metallic (Scale 75 Speed Metal/White Alchemy) drybrushed over it. I’ve converted up a New Zealand 3NZ Division for pacific games of bolt action ( Yes there were New Zealand infantry in the Pacific, you can read about them in this excellent book “Pacific Star” by Reg Newell), these were made with a mixture of Warlord Games British Infantry, US Marines and Chindit figures, along with North Star heads in forage caps. I’ve used Osprey’s The New Zealand Expeditionary Force in World War II as a reference for these as well as photos in Pacific Star. New Zealand force being batch painted prior to base detailing and varnishing