Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Base Leadbelcher

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Generally, the coat was really smooth. It’s worth noting that I added no thinner to the paint. Just straight into the airbrush cup and spray. You can thin it with something like Vallejo Airbrush Thinner for when you want to create smooth transitions. Once the main colours are done, I finish up the greens. Most of the green is started from a couple of thin coats of Moot Green. For cables and orbs I then wash towards the connection points with Biel Tan Green which is left to dry and then another coat of thinned Moot Green is used to blend the edges away from where the shade has dried. If you wish to highlight this a little further, a mix of Moot Green and Yriel Yellow in a 3:1 ratio works well.

Well, over the years of painting tons of miniatures, I’ve come to realize that you only need a select few metallic paints to cover 95% of the mini painting jobs you’ll encounter. For my scheme all the metal is done in one go, these days I much prefer to just base coat one metallic colour and then just use washes and contrast to build up the colour I want. In this case I wanted a rich dense feel to the metal for which the density of basilicanum is just fantastic, its effectively multiple coats of nuln in one go! While it is not super obvious in the final product, the agrax helps to give complexity to the tones in the metal that the grey wash does not really give. A colored-metallic paint doesn’t simply color a model like a normal paint. It also reflects the ambient light around you (which may also have a color) and the combined reflective surface may be skewed, unpredictably. I painted these Reciprocator models (Privateer Press) with my favorite steel metallic paint, Vallejo Model Air Steel.Finally, unlike the other metallic paints on my list, you may find limited use for this copper colored metallic paint. It is hard to color shift with glazes and washes because it is already on the darker side. But it’s an important note, if you spell Colour the way I do, you may not find this stuff on some of your favourite hobby stores if you search for it with a U! Vallejo Metal Color Review – Summary http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo I love the ostentatious colour scheme of the Nihilakh Dynasty, not afraid to show off their riches on even the lowliest Necron Warrior. Basecoat with Victorian Brass (optional- just pure copper could be used to save time for battle ready), then cover everything but the recesses with Pure Copper.

For example, I can use Vallejo Steel Metallic paint for a brighter metallic (e.g., like a shiny sword). But, I can also use the same metallic for the dark barrel of land raider’s auto cannon. All I have to do is wash and shade with a darkened ink. Another way to darken Vallejo Steel Metallic paint is to mix in Citadel’s Leadbelcher (another favorite neutral gray metallic). Edge highlight the armor with Silver mixed with just enough Pure Copper to give it a hint of color. Leadbelcher Spray is designed for basecoating all Citadel miniatures. When sprayed over an undercoat, it's a fast way to get a uniform base of colour onto your models. That then gets washed with Nuln Oil to darken it down, especially in the recesses, followed by a drybrush with Necron Compound on bits that are going to stay silver to complete it. I do this all now because when drybrushing such a large proportion of the model there’s a risk of getting some on other areas, which I’d rather be able to correct by re-applying the base than having to redo any edge highlighting. Heresy isn’t easy – you have to muster your forces, plan the route to Terra and make sure that your armour looks good. Fortunately, Horus Heresy mastermind and Alpha Legion commander Anuj is on hand to guide us through painting the nine Traitor Legions to a fast, Battle Ready standard with Contrast paint.

The product is named Metal Color (No U) – However, throughout the article, I will default to my native spelling “Colour” unless I am specifically mentioning the product itself. Please feel free to berate me for the few instances I am likely to have gotten this wrong. Tyler Mengel is here with a new guide to making models look great easily, and he’s turned his attention from the Mortal Realms to the far future – specifically the aeons-old warriors of the Necrons. Take it away, Tyler. Once that’s figured out, I based everything that was going to be metallic in Leadbelcher thinned with Lahmian Medium, and everything Canoptek or an energy blade in Caliban Green thinned with water. Previously when working on Canoptek stuff I’ve used Caliban Green Spray (now out of production), and what I found here was that CG paint alone was a little bit more of a vibrant green than I really wanted for the base on the legs. Here I salvaged it by darkening down with a wash of Dark Angels Green contrast, for all later models I used 2:1 Caliban Green/Incubi Darkness, which gave what I wanted straight away. Once both are applied, I then apply a layer of thinned Ironbreaker to the silver as well.